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Local Drywall Pro Hanger Finisher Repair Pittsboro NC

Local Sheetrock Pro Drywall Specialist - Hanger Finisher Repair Texture Removal Expert. Professional service in and around Pittsboro plus surrounding communities, neighborhoods. Hire A skilled and highly trained expert that has provided service in your neck of the woods since 1991. Competitive Prices Free Estimates Cost Quotes On Large Or Small Plasterboard Projects For Over Three Decades. Wall Ceiling Prep Painting

When the walls and ceilings of your home need attention hire a #LocalWallboardPro Contractor. Sheetrock is a rigid material that's pretty tough, however over time it can aquire holes caused by plumbers or electricians and stress cracks because of settlement or a bad foundation. Another culprit often associated with drywall problems is a leaky roof that has caused water damage or stains to ceilings and often walls too. Don't take chances with the biggest investment you most likely will ever make, your home. Hire an old pro Drywall-Specialist for fast professional service by a contractor that has done Sheetrock repairs in your neck of the woods since 1991. You get competitive prices and a 100% free estimate on the largest or smallest plasterboard repair prep or restoration project around Pittsboro Neighborhoods And Communities. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Google Business Profile, Images, Reviews

Contact Drywall Specialist 919-742-2030 Or Click Here > CONTACT Same Day Replies! 


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  • Drywall Specialist Taping Mudding Expert

    Finishing, Taping, Mudding Prepping and repairing walls and ceiling is a job that is best left to a professional drywall contractor whenever possible. It's not only a tough dirty job breathing the dust generated during the process is also a possible health risk to you and your family. Don't take chances call Drywall Specialist today for fast service, quality workmanship, reasonable prices and a 100% free estimate.

    By Jimmy Holmes | Updated Nov 01, 2022 04:43 AM

    Drywall finishing, prep and repair work is perhaps the the most important of all home upgrades. Hiring the right contractor is imperative for professional results. Don't spend hours, days, weeks trying to do ceiling prep repair and painting yourself only to find it simply doesn't look right when you have completed the task.

    SKILL LEVEL: Professional

    ESTIMATED COST: $195. to $3000.
    Drywall Specialist finishes wall and ceiling surfaces in new construction, remodels, and renovation projects. Sheetrock is thin panels consisting of mineral gypsum sandwiched between paper faces. Drywall installation and finish work is a difficult, time consuming job and should be left to professional dry wallers whenever possible. Finishing consist of covering the seams between panels with paper or fiberglass tape and then finishing the seams and the screw or nail holes with drywall joint compound to hide them.

    The process is often known in the building trades as taping and mudding. Finishing drywall is not a hard process for experienced drywallers, but for DIYers it can be tricky to put it mildly. Part of the taping and mudding process includes sanding the dried compound (mud) to smooth the edges, For skilled professionals, sanding is minimal, but DIYers may find that sanding is surprisingly complicated and messy. The secret is in applying just the right amount of wet mud.

    Hire A Pro For Professional Results
    When the process is done correctly, the wall surface will be perfectly smooth, the joints will be invisible to the naked eye, and the finished drywall surface will be ready for paint or a textured finish. But taping and mudding can be a frustrating job, so it's important to understand the process well.


    We Use High Grade Name Brand Supplies
    Drywall tape is available in two types: paper and fiberglass mesh. As a general rule, either paper or fiberglass tape will work for straight seams, but inside corners are best covered with paper tape. For corners, there are also corner bead products available, which have paper flanges attached to a metal bead. There are inside corner beads that are mudded into interior corners, as well as outside corner beads that are applied to outside corners.


    Joint compound is available in premixed and powdered forms. The premixed all-purpose compound is the best choice for most plasterboard jobs, though pros may opt for different formulations for different applications.


    Taping compound is the mud used for the main application of tape to the seams and corners, and for the second coat. It is designed to fill in the major gaps.
    Topping compound is used for the third finish layer of mud, a skim coat over the seams, and fastener holes. It is designed to create the final smooth coat, but it won't adhere the tape to the drywall panels in the same way that taping compound does.

    All-purpose compound is a general-purpose mud that serves all purposes. For most DIYers, this is the only mud you really need.
    Lightweight compound is another all-purpose mud, designed to dry faster. Many pros avoid lightweight compound, believing it has inferior adhesion when compared to the other types.

    Whether using powdered drywall compound or a premixed product, we give the mud a thorough stirring before using it.


    Drywall Finishing Not A Job For The Inexperienced
    Homeowners often have trouble applying just enough mud when taping, and over-application makes it necessary to do a considerable amount of sanding to get the joints perfectly smooth. The sanding dust, while not toxic, can irritate lungs and eyes, so it's important to wear a dust mask and eye protection while sanding. Better yet is to hone your skills so you apply just the right amount of mud reducing the amount of sanding necessary.

    How to Properly Finish Drywall
    What You'll Need
    Equipment / Tools
    Drywall taping knives (6-inch, 10-inch, 12-inch)
    Taping compound tray
    Screwgun or hammer (as needed)
    Dust mask
    Eye protection
    Drywall sanding block
    Materials
    All-purpose taping compound
    Fiberglass or paper drywall tape
    Drywall sandpaper
    Dry cloths
    Instructions
    tools to finish drywall.

    We Prepare the Surface
    Make sure that all nail or screw heads are driven down below the paper surface of the wallboard. Ideally, the paper surface of the drywall should not be broken (if so, it lessens the holding power of the fastener), but should be recessed just slightly below the surface of the drywall panel. Before mudding, drag a taping knife over the surface to detect fasteners that might not be fully recessed, and if you find any, tighten the screws up or drive the nails just enough to remove the obstacle.

    If there are any spots with torn paper on the drywall we cut them off with a razor or other sharp tool. These will be obstructions to smooth taping and mudding.

    We Prepare The Drywall Surface
    Apply the First Mud Coat (Paper Or Mesh Tape)
    When we use paper tape, it must be embedded in a layer of compound, and thus the process takes slightly longer than with fiberglass tape. Many pros, however, feel that paper tape creates a joint that is less likely to crack and show through after painting.

    We begin by cutting a length of paper tape to the exact length of the joint. Next, scoop some mud into a compound tray. With a 6-inch taping knife, apply a smooth, thin layer of mud over the joint.

    We immediately press the paper tape into the mud, centered over the joint. Hold the tape in place with one hand while pulling the taping knife over the tape (work from the middle of the joint toward the ends). Apply just enough pressure to squeeze a little compound out from under the tape.

    Immediately apply another thin layer of compound to cover the tape and fill the joint. There should be a very thin layer of compound over the tape at this point, but you will still clearly see the tape through the mud. The edges of drywall panels are slightly recessed as they are manufactured, allowing the paper tape to lay just slightly below the outer surface as it is applied. It will be subsequent layers of mud applied with a wide wallboard knife that raises out the joints so they are perfectly flush with the surrounding panel areas.

    Applying The First Mud Coat
    We apply the First Mud Coat (Fiberglass Tape)
    Fiberglass-mesh tape is self-adhesive and can be applied directly to the drywall seams without first applying a layer of mud.

    We then cut a length of tape to the exact length of the joint, and press it over the joint, making sure there are no bumps or ripples. Use a 6-inch taping knife to apply a layer of compound thick enough to fill and cover the mesh surface, but again you will still be able to see the fiberglass fibers at this point.

    We completely smooth the surface and feather the edges as best as you can by pressing it down with a drywall knife.

    Applying Fiberglass Tape
    Finish Inside Corners
    Following the process you used for either paper or fiberglass tape, finish the inside corners where walls meet. For paper tape or corner bead, first apply a thin layer of mud compound, then apply a folded strip of paper tape or corner bead, then cover the paper with a thin coat of mud. There are special corner drywall knives made for this purpose, but you can also apply compound and cover the tape using a standard 6-inch wallboard knife.

    Fiberglass tape can simply be folded into a long angled strip, then pressed into the corner to adhere it to the walls. Some care is necessary to ensure crisp, sharp corners.

    Finishing Inside Corners

    For finishing inside corners, consider using prefabricated corner bead. DIYers often find this to be an easier method of finishing inside corners. Corner bead consists of narrow paper flanges attached to an L-shaped metal bead. It can be cut to length with tin snips, then simply pressed into a corner that has been coated with taping compound. When covered over with another coat of taping compound, the corner will be perfectly smooth.

    Finish Outside Corners and Screw/Nail Heads
    For outside corners that have already been covered with metal bead, applying tape is not necessary—just apply the mud over each face of the corner, using a drywall knife.

    With the joints and corners all taped and mudded, apply a small amount of compound over each nail or screw head and smooth the surface.

    Let the compound dry overnight, or longer if necessary. Clean the tools and put the lid back on the bucket of mud.

    Finishing Corners
    We Sand and Apply the Fill Coat
    Lightly sand the dried compound to remove any ridges and bumps. (Wear a dust mask and eye protection while sanding.) Some professionals omit sanding entirely, simply using a wallboard knife to knock down raised areas of the dried compound. DIYers, though, are more likely to need a light sanding before applying the fill coat.

    It is best to use a hand sanding block; do not use a power sander on drywall. A special drywall sanding block can be mounted with fine-grit drywall sandpaper, and it accepts a threaded pole to allow you to easily sand high up on walls without a ladder.

    After sanding, wipe down the wallboard with a clean cloth to remove sanding dust, then use a 10- or 12-inch knife to spread another layer of compound over the joints, feathering the edges. With this application from a wide knife, the joint areas will now be raised up nearly flush with the faces of the wallboard panels, and the tape should now be hidden under the compound.

    Once dry, give the surface another light sanding. Take care not to expose the tape. Over-sanding is a common DIY mistake.

    Drying time for taping compound will vary, depending mostly on humidity levels. You will know that the compound is dry when it all lightens to a uniform, white appearance. With heavy coats, this can require overnight drying, but with light coats in arid weather conditions, drying may take just an hour or so.

    We Apply The Fill Coat
    Apply the Finish Coat
    If you’ve taken care when applying and sanding the first coats, the finish coat should require only a very light final application of mud to create a smooth surface. Use the widest drywall knife trowel you have to apply this coat. This knife should be at least 12 inches wide; pros may use even wider drywall knives.

    Some pros add a little water to the mud before the final coat (but never more than the equivalent of one pint of water to a five-gallon bucket of mud). If you do this, make sure to mix the water in thoroughly.

    This very light finish coat will likely be dry within an hour or two.

    applying the finishing coat
    Lightly Sand the Wall
    Let the finish coat of compound dry thoroughly, then lightly sand the dried compound. Avoid the temptation to over-sand, as it is easy to sand down into the tape. If the finish doesn't quite meet the smoothness test, don’t be afraid to apply another thin layer of mud.

    Your drywall surface is now ready to accept paint, wallpaper, or a texturizing treatment. Wipe the surfaces clean of dust before painting or texturizing the wall or ceiling surfaces.

    sanding dry wall

    A wet sander is a textured sponge designed to smooth wallboard joints without dry sanding. Wet sanders are popular among DIYers, since they eliminate sanding dust. But with wet sanders, it can be quite hard to get perfectly smooth seams without waves and without dissolving and removing too much of the dried mud. Most people get better results by dry sanding, which is relatively easy once you learn the technique of proper mud application.

Drywall Specialist Repairs All Types of Drywall Damage

Damaged drywall can occur because of a number of factors. The top three causes are holes caused by door knobs, holes cut by plumbers or electricians and third being bumped by objects like furniture. Cracks on the other hand are usually caused by poor workmanship, improperly installed joint tape, stress and settlement cracks. Call Drywall Specialist Today we fix holes and cracks no matter what caused them.

By Jimmy Holmes | Updated Oct 26, 2022 10:43 AM

Hole and crack repair is perhaps the the most important of all home upgrades. Hiring the right contractor is imperative for professional results. Don't spend hours, days, weeks trying to do repairs and painting yourself only to find it simply doesn't look right when you have completed the task.

Project Overview

Working Time: 4 hours
Total Time: 14 hours
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Cost Can Vary And Start At: $150

Before You Begin

If you however insist on doing the work yourself here are a few tips to ensure the best outcome for both your ceiling and your own wellbeing, prep work and painting isn't for the average do it yourselfer. You will be miles ahead when you hire a pro for this type of project.

First, carefully peruse the materials and tools list below and gather all the necessary equipment. You don’t want to be dashing out to the garage every 5 minutes, climbing up and down a ladder each time, to see this project through.

The best method to use when repairing drywall depends on the type of damage that needs to be fixed. Drywall repair can be broken down into the following categories:

  • Nicks, Scratches, and Dents
  • Drywall Cracks
  • Holes in Drywall
  • Nail Pops
  • Corner Bead Damage
  • Water Damage
  • Matching Drywall Texture

Repairing Drywall Cracks

Cracks can be caused by a number of factors. The most common cause is an improper taping job followed by settlement or stress cracks. If the joint tape in your home was improperly installed you could be in for serious problems. On the other hand stress and settlement cracks are usually caused by a failing foundation and can be resolved if appropreate foundation work is done.

Most drywall cracks occur within the first year of finishing a drywall project. Some cracking in drywall is inevitable. How do you fix drywall cracks? What type of drywall mud is best for repairing drywall cracks? What type of drywall tape should be used when repairing drywall cracks? Read some of the articles linked here for a detailed discussion.

Repairing Holes in Drywall

There are a number of reasons why you may need to repair drywall holes. For example, when plumbers have to work on pipes, when electricians install or move lights or outlet boxes, there are usually holes left that need to be repaired.

Repairing Nail Pops A very common imperfection in drywall is 'nail-pops'. Nail-pops look like small round indentations in the drywall surface. The paint cracks around the screw head. 'Screw-pops' are caused when the underlying screw or nail breaks free from the backing below and allows the drywall to move in and out.

How to Match Drywall Texture

If the surface you are patching is textured, you will need to determine the type of texture and attempt to match it. Please read our articles about common drywall textures to see what type of textures are available. You can check out this article for tips to matching drywall texture. If you are looking to match a spray knockdown texture, you will definitely want to read our tip on matching knockdown texture

Call A #LocalProDrywall Company For Sheetrock Work In Pittsboro NC.